Absinthe, a controversial and misunderstood drink

For a long time, absinthe had a disturbing reputation: that of an alcohol “that drives you mad”. Associated with cursed artists and the decadence of the late 19th century, it was banned in many countries. However, this dark legend is based more on collective fears and excessive consumption than on scientific reality.

Nicolas Malfondet

5/13/20252 min read

Absinthe in the 19th century

Distilled from plants (grand wormwood, anise, fennel, hyssop, etc.), this drink enjoyed tremendous success in the 19th century, particularly in France and Switzerland.

Nicknamed “the green fairy", it became a ritual drink, served with an absinthe fountain, sugar, and a slotted spoon.

However, its growing popularity worried the wine industry, which was already struggling after the phylloxera crisis.

a glass of absinthe, with slotted spoon and sugar
a glass of absinthe, with slotted spoon and sugar

The myth of madness

Absinthe was believed to cause delirium and hallucinations. Verlaine and Rimbaud, among others, were said to have suffered the consequences.

But in reality, the health problems were mainly caused by very strong alcohol (often around 70% ABV) consumed in large quantities and, sometimes, by poor quality or adulterated products.

Let's be clear: a glass of properly distilled absinthe does not drive you mad!

Albert Pierre René Maignan painting, the green muse
Albert Pierre René Maignan painting, the green muse

Prohibition and rehabilitation

Under pressure from anti-alcohol movements and the wine industry (which carried out one of the first major modern lobbying campaigns), absinthe was banned in Switzerland in 1908 and France in 1915.

It remained banned for nearly a century, maintaining its mysterious aura.

It was not until the early 2000s that it made its big comeback, following legislative clarification and stricter controls on its composition (thujone content).

Today, absinthe is once again produced and enjoyed legally in Switzerland, France, and around the world. Absinthe bars, or “absintheries", are now commonplaces.

Grand wormwood leaves
Grand wormwood leaves

Thujone, a controversial molecule

Grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) contains thujone, a molecule also found in other plants such as sage and thuja.

In high doses, thujone can have neurotoxic effects.

The concentration of this compound is now regulated by European legislation (maximum 35 mg/kg).

In today's absinthe, as in old authentic bottles that have been analyzed, the low levels present do not pose any particular risk.

the front of an absinthe bar
the front of an absinthe bar
a modern absinthe bottle
a modern absinthe bottle

A drink to rediscover

Far from the myth of madness, absinthe is a rich, complex, and cultural drink.

When enjoyed in moderation, it offers an exceptional range of aromas: herbal, aniseed, spicy...

So many facets that deserve to restore the green fairy to its rightful place in the heritage of spirits rather than in legends.

a modern absinthe drink
a modern absinthe drink